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The Rough Guide to Corsica (Rough Guide Travel Guides) by: Theo Taylor List Price: £10.99 Price: £3.91 You Save: £7.08 (64%)Prices subject to change. |
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Binding: Paperback Dewey Decimal Number: 914.49450484 EAN: 9781843530473 ISBN: 1843530473 Label: Rough Guides Ltd Manufacturer: Rough Guides Ltd Number Of Items: 1 Number Of Pages: 480 Publication Date: February 27, 2003 Publisher: Rough Guides Ltd Studio: Rough Guides Ltd Sales Rank: 322833 Related Items:
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Editorial Review: Homes and Gardens Magazine, UK: Excellent coverage, Book Description: INTRODUCTION ‘Kallisté’ – ‘the most beautiful’ – was what the ancient Greeks called Corsica, and the compliment holds as true today as ever. In few corners of the Mediterranean will you find water as translucent, sand as soft and white, and weather so dependably warm and sunny; and nowhere else has seascapes as dramatic as the red porphyry Calanches of the west coast, and the striated white cliffs in the far south. Crowning it all, a mass of forested valleys herringbone from the island’s granite spine, which rises to a mighty 2706m at Monte Cinto, snow-encrusted even at the height of summer. That these extraordinary landscapes have survived the ferro-concrete revolution of the past few decades unscathed seems miraculous when you consider the fate of comparably beautiful parts of southern Europe. Nearly two million visitors descend on the island annually (two thirds of them in July and August), yet purpose-built resorts are few and far between, while high-rise blocks remain outnumbered by extravagant Baroque churches and old fortified houses built to protect families formerly embroiled in vendettas. Overlooked by Corsica’s trademark seventeenth-century watchtowers, long stretches of the shore remain backed by unbroken maquis, while forests of holm oak, chestnut trees and magnificent Laricio pines carpet the interior valleys, dotted with pretty stone villages. "Provence without the Brits" is how rural Corsica is often described in holiday brochures, but the gloss fails to convey the island’s distinctive grandeur: the wildness of its uplands, the vivid atmosphere of its remote settlements, and arresting emptiness of its valleys and woodlands, where wild boar are still more numerous than people. Corsica’s pristine state is largely the legacy of economic neglect, compounded by the impact of two world wars and mass out-migration in the twentieth century. Lured by the island’s abundant natural resources and strategic position on the Mediterranean seaways, successive invaders – from the Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans, to the Aragonese, Italians, British and French – all came and conquered, but none were able to establish lasting prosperity. Nor were they ever able to subjugate fully the rebellious spirit of the islanders themselves, who at various times in their history have mounted fierce resistance to colonial occupation. In the nineteenth century, an armed uprising established a fully independent government led by one of the most charismatic political figures of the Enlightenment, Pascal Paoli. Before it was ruthlessly crushed by the French, the regime introduced the vote for women and a democratic constitution which would later be used a model for that of the United States. Violent opposition to French rule flared up once again in the mid-1970s, since when nationalist paramilitary groups have been waging a bloody campaign against the state and its representatives, both on the island and on the Continent. Among ordinary islanders, support for the armed struggle – whose bombings and shootings have claimed hundreds of lives but seldom, if ever, affect tourists – has dwindled to virtually nil over the past decade. Yet the desire for greater autonomy remains as fervent as ever, in spite of the fact that the island imports virtually everything it needs and receives huge financial support from Paris and the EU. Having had to struggle for centuries to preserve their language and customs, Corsicans have gained a reputation for being suspicious of outsiders. You will, for example, get a very frosty response indeed (or worse) if you attempt to broach the subject of nationalist violence, the Mafia, religious brotherhoods or belief in occult phenomena such as the Evil Eye. But express admiration for those facets of island life which the islanders are overtly proud of – such as their cuisine, fine wines, enigmatic carved menhirs and polyphony singing – and you’ll soon feel the warmth of traditional hospitality. Save for the ubiquitous nationalist graffiti, sprayed-out road signs and odd fire-bombed villa or beach restaurant, Corsica’s dark underbelly is barely discernible these days, as its population is drawn ever closer to the European mainstream. Lasting impressions tend instead to be dominated by the things which have beguiled travellers since Boswell first raved about the island in the mid-eighteenth century: the breathtakingly unspoilt scenery and distinctive Mediterranean way of life which, although bearing strong resemblances to the cultures of neighbouring Tuscany and Sardinia, the French Riviera and Sicily – somehow manages to remain quite different from any of them. Two hundred years of French rule have had limited tangible effect on Corsica, an island where Baroque churches, Genoese fortresses, fervent Catholic rituals and an indigenous language saturated with Tuscan influences show a more profound affinity with neighbouring Italy. During the long era of Italian supremacy the northeast and southwest of Corsica formed two provinces known as Diqua dei monti – "this side of the mountains" – and Dila dei monti, the uncontrollable "side beyond". Today the French départements of Haute-Corse and Corse du Sud roughly coincide with these territories, and remain quite different in feel. Synopsis: One of the Mediterranean's most accessible, yet least spoilt islands, with some of its best beaches and most beautiful mountain scenery, Corsica is an increasingly popular holiday destination. This guide features detailed town write-ups, as well as fully up-to-date hotel and restaurant listings. This edition includes a new chapter on long-distance walks, including a full account of GR20 - regarded as Europe's leading "haute route". Excerpted from The Rough Guide to Corsica (Rough Guides) by David Abram. Copyright © 2003. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.: WHERE TO GO Capital of the north, Bastia was the principal Genoese stronghold and its fifteenth-century old town has survived almost intact. Of the island’s two large towns, this is the more purely Corsican, and commerce rather than tourism is its main concern. Also relatively undisturbed, the northern Cap Corse harbours inviting sandy coves and coastal villages such as Erbalunga and Centuri-Port. Within a short distance of Bastia, the fertile region of the Nebbio has a scattering of churches built by Pisan stoneworkers, the prime example being the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta at the appealingly chic little port of St-Florent. To the west of here, L’Île Rousse and Calvi, the latter graced with an impressive citadel and a fabulous sandy beach, are the island’s major resort towns – and their hilly hinterland, the Haute-Balagne, offers plenty of hilltop villages to explore, as well as access to the northern reaches of the vast Parc Naturel Régional, an astounding area of forested valleys, gorges and peaks. The spectacular Scandola nature reserve, a part of the northwest coast that lies within the boundaries of the park, can be visited by boat from the tiny resort of Porto, from where walkers strike into the magnificently wild Spelunca Gorge and Forêt d’Aïtone. Sandy beaches and rocky coves punctuate the west coast all the way down to Ajaccio, Napoléon’s birthplace and Bastia’s traditional rival. Its pavement cafés and palm-lined boulevards are packed with tourists in summer, but comparatively few of them make it to nearby Filitosa, greatest of the many prehistoric sites scattered across this, the most heavily visited, half of the island. The resort of Propriano lies close to Filitosa and to stern Sartène, seat of the wild feudal lords who once ruled this region and still the quintessential Corsican town. More megalithic sites are to be found south of Sartène on the way to Bonifacio, a comb of ancient buildings perched atop furrowed white cliffs at the southern tip of the island. Equally popular Porto-Vecchio, the spot that has perhaps suffered most from the tourist boom, provides a springboard for excursions to the dazzling beaches of the south, or alternatively to the pine forest of Ospédale, or even to the windswept Col de Bavella, whose flattened pines and gigantic cliffs so inspired Edward Lear. The eastern plain has less going for it, but the Roman site at Aléria is worth a visit for its excellent museum, while to the north of Aléria lies the Castagniccia, a swath of chestnut trees and alluring villages. Corte, standing at the heart of Corsica, is the best base for exploring the stupendous mountains and gorges of the interior, with the remote valleys of the Niolo and Asco a stone’s throw away. Dominating these, Monte Cinto marks the northern edge of the island’s spine of high peaks, closely tracked by the epic GR20, regarded as Europe’s toughest and most spectacular hike. The route, and several other of the superb long-distance walks on offer in Corsica, are covered in a separate chapter. Accounts of shorter day walks, and of ascents of the island’s major peaks – Monte Cinto, Monte Rotondo, Monte d’Oro and Monte Renoso – appear throughout the Guide. WHEN TO GO Whatever kind of holiday you intend to take, the best times of year to visit Corsica are late spring and late summer or early autumn, when you’re guaranteed sunshine without the stifling heat or crowds of July and August. The wild flowers carpeting the island in April and May make these delightful months to come, and autumn is just as good for scenic colour – the Castagniccia in particular is a riot of russet tones at this time of year. Beachgoers will be ensured a tan as late as October, and even if you plan a visit in the depths of winter you’re unlikely to encounter much rain, though snow on the high mountains can restrict driving through the passes in January, February and March, and visibility is often obscured by mists. Crowds are likely to be a problem only in the major resorts such as Porto-Vecchio and L’Île Rousse, especially in the summer school holidays – les grandes vacances – when the whole of Italy and France take their annual holiday. In the more remote areas you should book accommodation in advance, for the simple reason that there is rarely more than a single hotel in any village. Customer Reviews
Average Rating:
 Rating:  - An excellent introductionI like this book very much and found it to be an invaluable resource. To get the best out of it you need to read it well before you go and maybe take one of the new generation guide books with you as well. Until recently guide books about this intriguing destination were hard to find so we have used the Rough Guide for several years and we have not been disappointed. As you would expect it is very strong on arrival at whichever port/airport you choose to come in at as well as transport and accommodation. The politics of Corsica are mystifying and this latest edition of The Rough Guide will bring you up to date with the situation to Jan 2003. If you can also read Dorothy Carrington's "This Granite Isle" before your ... Read More: Rating:  - Guide Book That Misses The MarkThis book was big on history but poor on current details. It lacked practical up-to-date information and guidance and presentation was poor and uninteresting. The maps were mediocre and more coloured photographs were needed. Some details were misleading, for example the description of the entrance to the Santa Maria Assunta, "...twisting serpents and wild animals adorn the pilasters..." There were in fact only two rather negligible carvings. Altogether very disappointing. Rating: - innacurate but better than nothingWe encountered several errors in mileages (sometimes off by 2 times!), vague directions, and errors in the price range for hotels. The background information is good, but on the whole it is extremeley lacking in practical information. Rating: - A useful addition to any ruck-sack when walking in CorsicaIn typical, information packed style, the Rough Guide to Corsica is crammed with information which makes any stay on the 'Ile de Beaute' more enjoyable. As an addition to any back-packers luggage, the book is worth its weight in gold. With handy descriptions of all of the major conurbations of the island, the book offers great advice on where to eat and stay on any budget. The only area that the book lets itself down on is with its descriptions of the many island treks that are available. The classic Grand Randonee Vingt (GR20) is mentioned briefly, but the true walking paradise that is Corsica is not done justice by the lack of any mention of the web of walks that cross the region. The book is very up-to-date and allows the reader ... Read More: |
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